Includes bibliographical references and index.

1 - Introduction: textile manufacturing process -- 1.1 Raw material and its characteristics -- 1.2 Expression of fineness -- 1.2.1 Linear density/count -- 1.3 Importance of fiber properties -- 1.3.1 Length characteristics -- 1.3.2 Fineness -- 1.3.3 Maturity (MIC) of cotton fiber -- 1.3.4 Fiber strength -- 1.4 Ranking fiber properties for various spinning technologies -- 1.5 Estimation of fiber parameters from fiber linear density -- 1.6 Flow chart of spinning process -- 1.6.1 Carded yarn production -- 1.6.2 Combed yarn production -- 1.6.3 Sliver to yarn spinning -- 1.7 Flow chart of weaving process -- 1.8 Flow chart of weft knitting process -- 1.9 Garmenting process flow chart -- 2 - Applications of selected response surface design of experiments and advanced control charts in textile engineering -- 2.1 Role of statistics for textile engineers -- 2.2 Design of experiment -- 2.3 Response surface design -- 2.3.1 Central composite design -- 2.3.2 Illustration of central composite design -- 2.3.3 Box-Behnken design -- 2.3.4 Illustration of Box-Behnken design -- 2.3.5 Mixture design -- 2.3.6 Illustration of a mixture experiment -- 2.4 Process control in textiles by advanced control chart -- 2.4.1 Individuals control charts -- 2.4.2 Utility and limitations of individual control chart -- 2.4.3 Illustration of individual control chart -- 2.4.4 Zone chart -- 2.4.5 Interpretation of zone control chart -- 2.4.6 Utility and limitations of zone chart -- 2.4.7 Illustration of zone chart -- 2.4.8 CUSUM control charts -- 2.4.9 Illustration of CUSUM control chart -- 2.4.10 V-mask used to determine if process is out of control -- 2.4.11 Illustration 1 of CUSUM chart with V-mask.

2.4.12 Illustration 2 of CUSUM chart with V-mask -- 2.4.13 Tabular CUSUM -- 2.4.14 Illustration of tabular CUSUM -- 2.4.15 Utility and limitations of CUSUM chart -- 2.5 EWMA control charts -- 2.5.1 Utility and limitations of EWMA chart -- 2.5.2 Illustration of EWMA control chart -- 2.6 Conclusions -- References -- 3 - Man made fiber manufacturing process -- 3.1 Introduction -- 3.2 Degree of polymerization -- 3.3 Number average molecular weight, weight average, and viscosity average molecular weight of polymers -- 3.3.1 End-group analysis to measure number average molecular weight -- 3.3.2 Dilute solution viscometers: determination of number average and viscosity average molecular weight of the polymer -- 3.3.2.1 Determination of number average molecular weight by intrinsic viscosity method -- 3.4 Quantitative concepts of polymeric molecules for fibers -- 3.5 Relation between filament fineness (denier) and it's diameter -- 3.6 Tensile strength of a filament -- 3.7 Temperature dependence of polymer viscosity -- 3.8 Melt spinning variables -- 3.8.1 Independent (or primary) variables of melt spinning (as defined by Ziabicki [7,8]) -- 3.8.2 Secondary variables in melt spinning -- 3.8.3 Resulting variables in melt spinning mentioned as follows -- 3.9 Temperature profile of filaments in melt spinning -- 3.9.1 Theoretical argument -- 3.10 Determination of degree of crystallinity from DSC study -- 3.11 Determining crystallinity of the spun polymeric fibers -- 3.11.1 Determination of crystallinity of fibers by density method -- 3.12 Conclusion -- References -- 4 - Prespinning processes (opening and cleaning, carding and drawing) -- 4.1 Introduction -- 4.2 Opening and cleaning -- 4.2.1 Average fiber parameters in fiber mixture -- 4.2.2 Bale lay down -- 4.2.3 Intensity of opening -- 4.2.4 1Blows/kg -- 4.2.5 Force on fiber tufts.

4.2.5.1 1Impulse due to beating action -- 4.2.5.2 Centrifugal force -- 4.2.6 Multimixers -- 4.2.6.1 Blending delay time -- 4.2.6.2 Doubling factor -- 4.2.7 Lap formation -- 4.2.8 Cleaning efficiency -- 4.2.9 Production calculation of blow room -- 4.3 Carding -- 4.3.1 Carding angle -- 4.3.2 Intensity of opening -- 4.3.3 Tooth density (licker-in) -- 4.3.4 Draft -- 4.3.5 Production calculation of carding -- 4.3.6 Production constant -- 4.3.7 Periodic variation -- 4.4 Draw frame -- 4.4.1 Mechanical draft -- 4.4.2 Actual draft -- 4.4.3 Draft and draft constant -- 4.4.4 Limit irregularity in sliver -- 4.4.5 Irregularity due to drafting -- 4.4.6 Wave length of periodic mass variation -- 4.4.6.1 Front bottom roller eccentric -- 4.4.6.2 Back roller is eccentric -- 4.4.7 Blending on draw frame -- 4.4.7.1 All slivers having same linear density -- 4.4.7.2 Two components of different linear densities are blended -- 4.4.8 Production calculation -- 4.4.9 Efficiency -- 4.4.10 Drafting wave -- 4.4.11 Periodic variation -- Practice problems -- 5 - Combing, roving preparation, and spinning -- 5.1 Combing -- 5.1.1 Draft and production calculation of lap former -- 5.1.2 Production of lap former (Kg) -- 5.1.3 Boundary length and noil % in comber -- 5.1.4 Piecing wave length -- 5.1.5 Comber production -- 5.1.6 Draft in comber -- 5.1.6.1 Major draft -- 5.1.6.2 Tension draft: this draft is in between -- 5.1.6.3 Relation between actual and mechanic draft -- 5.1.6.4 Draft due to noil extraction -- 5.1.7 Combing efficiency -- 5.1.8 Nep removal efficiency -- 5.2 Roving frame -- 5.2.1 Roving twist -- 5.2.2 Twist factor -- 5.2.3 Roving diameter -- 5.2.4 Draft and draft constant -- 5.2.5 Winding speed -- 5.2.6 Traverse rate of bobbin rail -- 5.2.7 Production calculation -- 5.3 Ring spinning -- 5.3.1 Winding equation -- 5.3.2 Yarn twist -- 5.3.3 Twist factor -- 5.3.4 Winding tension.

5.3.5 Drafting irregularity -- 5.3.6 Draft and draft constant -- 5.3.7 Twist constant -- 5.3.8 Production calculation -- 6 - Yarn structure and mechanics -- 6.1 Yarn fineness/count conversion -- 6.2 Yarn diameter -- 6.3 Number of fibers in yarn cross-section -- 6.4 Linear density of plied yarn -- 6.4.1 Direct system -- 6.4.2 Indirect system: in indirect system the relationship is -- 6.5 Torsion and bending of a fiber within twisted yarn -- 6.6 Yarn contraction/extension due to twisting/untwisting -- 6.7 Relationship between structural parameters -- 6.7.1 Yarn diameter by the Pierce formula -- 6.8 Packing coefficient -- 6.9 Close pack geometry -- 6.10 Fiber migration in spun yarn -- 6.11 Tensile behavior of twisted filament yarn -- 6.12 Radial pressure in twisted yarn -- 6.13 Wrap yarn -- 6.14 Blended yarn -- 6.14.1 Strictly similar yarn -- 6.14.2 Migration index (blended yarn) -- 6.14.3 Blended yarn strength -- 6.15 Self-locking structure of spun yarn [3] -- 6.16 Core sheath yarn -- 6.17 Exercise problems -- References -- 7 - Fabric preparatory -- 7.1 Introduction -- 7.2 Winding of yarn -- 7.2.1 Drum-driven winding -- 7.2.1.1 Angle of wind -- 7.2.1.2 Wind -- 7.2.1.3 Traverse ratio or wind ratio or wind per double traverse -- 7.2.2 Spindle-driven winding -- 7.2.3 Slippage of the drum -- 7.2.4 Yarn tensioning -- 7.3 Splicing -- 7.4 Production calculation of winding machine -- 7.5 Warping -- 7.4.1 Calculation on warping -- 7.6 Sizing -- References -- 8 - Woven fabric production -- 8.1 Introduction -- 8.2 Primary motions -- 8.2.1 Shedding -- 8.2.2 Picking mechanism -- 8.3 Beat-up mechanism -- 8.4 Secondary motions -- 8.4.1 Take-up motion -- 8.4.2 Let-off motion -- 8.5 Auxiliary or stop-motions -- 8.6 Nonconventional weaving machine -- 8.7 Conclusion -- References -- 9 - Woven fabric structure -- 9.1 Introduction -- References.

10 - Knitted fabric production -- 10.1 Introduction -- 10.2 Some basic terminologies and their relevant mathematical equations -- 10.3 Geometry of loop and loop length -- 10.3.1 Theoretical loop length -- 10.4 Robbing back -- 10.5 State of relaxation -- 10.6 Fabric areal density -- 10.7 Tightness factor -- 10.8 Productions calculations -- 10.8.1 Circular knitting machine -- 10.8.2 V-bed knitting machine -- 10.9 Warp knitting calculations -- 10.9.1 Solved problems -- 10.9.2 Unsolved problems -- 10.9.3 Answers of unsolved problems -- References -- 11 - Calculations in fabric chemical processing -- 11.1 Introduction -- 11.2 Calculations at various stage of textiles processing -- 11.2.1 Moisture regain and moisture content -- 11.2.2 Pretreatment -- 11.2.3 Desizing -- 11.2.4 Scouring -- 11.2.5 Assessment of scouring efficiency -- 11.3 Cuprammonium fluidity -- 11.3.1 Bleaching -- 11.3.2 Available chlorine (active chlorine) -- 11.4 Mercerization -- 11.4.1 Determination of degree of mercerization -- 11.5 Barium activity number -- 11.6 Dyeing -- 11.6.1 Weight of fabric -- 11.6.2 Shade percentage (%) -- 11.6.3 Stock solution -- 11.6.4 Material to liquor ratio -- 11.6.5 Auxiliaries or chemicals calculation formula -- 11.6.6 Additional auxiliaries calculation formula -- 11.6.7 Percentage to gram conversion formula -- 11.6.8 Printing -- 11.6.8.1 Printing cost in textile industry -- 11.6.9 Finishing -- 11.6.10 Wet pick up -- 11.6.11 Curing of chemical finishes -- 11.7 Conclusion -- References -- 12 - Apparel manufacturing measures and calculations -- 12.1 Introduction -- 12.2 Plant set-up and facility design-related measures and calculation -- 12.2.1 Manufacturing plant set-up -- 12.2.2 Fabric store -- 12.2.2.1 Fabric rack capacity calculation -- 12.2.2.2 Area calculation for fabric storage -- 12.2.3 Spreading and cutting.

12.2.3.1 The calculation for spreading and cutting table dimensions.

Textile Calculation: Fibre to Finished Garment provides detailed explanations of standard numerical calculations used at different stages of garment production, including spinning, weaving, processing, garmenting and testing. At every stage, from fiber production to garment manufacturing, textile production involves the selection of fibers or filaments, yarns, machines and process parameters. The calculations involved in this work relate to requirements of machines in the process line, estimations of process parameters, process characteristics, and machine efficiency, all of which must be objective and backed by sound theory. Drawing on extensive industry experience, this book gathers these numerical problems from across the supply chain to provide best practice and appropriate solutions. With its comprehensive coverage of all parts of the textile production cycle, this book is essential reading for those preparing to enter the textile industry, as well as an invaluable reference for professionals and researchers.

Description based on print version record.